As I licked me cone of Java Smash-Up ice cream and pondered how it very well may be the most delectable concoction on God’s Green Earth, I realized that I wouldn’t have been surprised to see a photographer from the Patagonia catalog emerge from behind the row of manicured bushes to snap my picture. I had the best seat in the house, sprawled out on a gentle decline that ended in a rocky shoreline and expanded out to Friday Harbor in Washington’s San Juan Islands.
Situated in front of me was the actual namesake harbor, with long rows of creaky wooden floating docks to serve as the pathway between everything from modest dinghys to awe-inspiring yachts. Sea planes landed and departed effortlessly on their makeshift aquatic runway, as if that’s exactly what planes were made to do. Boxy green ferries arrived like clockwork from Anacortes to relieve themselves of lines of cars and supply trucks. As the vehicles exited the ferry and were parked along Main Street, their passengers also parked their work lives and stress levels too. Smiles were difficult to mask; they were on island time now.
The San Juan Islands sit about 100 or so miles north of Seattle, and consist of three islands: San Juan, Orcas, and Lopez. Friday Harbor, the travel hub, is the only real town of the three.
The shopping opportunities in Friday Harbor do not disappoint. In a few aptly named small town streets (Main, Spring, Argyle) one will find a myriad of clothing shops, bookstores, coffee houses, and restaurants. I was delighted to encounter Serendipity, a used bookshop where organized chaos is the name of the game. Pelindaba Lavender is the in-town depot for the neighboring lavender farm, and I discovered about ninety different things one can mae from lavender; everything from soap to honey to hot chocolate.
In nearby Cannery Landing, one will find the charming David Baughn and his sweet golden retriever ready to pour samples of San Juan Cellars Wines at the Island Wine Company. David and his wife Kathryn sell the eastern Washington-grown grape’s product only in Friday Harbor, although they will ship to some parts of the country as well.
Just a short walk from downtown is Wayfarer’s Rest, a quaint island home that the proprietor, Andrea, runs as a hostel. Boasting comfortable beds and a large common living room and kitchen, Wayfarer’s was the perfect place to find budget accomodations on the island. The atmosphere is entirely laid back; you simply pick up an envelope with your key and let yourself in your room. But, don’t forget to bring a quarter for the shower!
According to my Frommer’s guide, if one travels to the San Juan Islands and does not spend any time on a boat, they have missed the point. I opted for a day-long sea kayaking adventure through Outdoor Odysseys. In operation since 1983, this outfitter provides knowledgable and friendly guides and a delicious vegetarian lunch. Donning my splash jacket and spray skirt, I set out from Small Pox Bay with my group on a flawless July morning. Although no promises of whale sightings can be made, we immediately encountered one of the island group’s three resident Orca whale pod. Just being in the same water as these massive animals was humbling in and of itself. The rest of the trip offered bald eagle sightings, views of floppy, chunky sea lions, and observations of giant purple sea stars clinging to the rocky cliffs until high tide rolled in to take them back out to sea. This was a trip and a day I will not soon forget.
Traveling back to Seattle on the Victoria Clipper passenger ferry proved to be a trip in and of itself. The late afternoon sun made it perfect for sitting on the top deck and just taking in my surroundings. It was an escape from everything, even if just for a short moment in time.
The San Juan Islands are a perfect, well-kept destination to just be outside and enjoy the simple act of doing so. I will surely return, and until then I will dream of the sparkling waters and jagged coastlines whose beauty speaks for itself.
